Wood Turning

I source the hard wood pieces are from my local timber yard; preferably paying for off-cuts which, otherwise, would end up on the fire because they aren't serviceable for trade dimension lumber.

Once I've decided what I'm making the timber needs to be marked up for cutting into a blank form (please see before and after images below). I tend to do this according to the direction of the wood grain and, in particular, with the aim of highlighting any features in the character of the wood itself. The blanks are cut into cylinders using a bandsaw.

After which the blank is secured onto a face plate or lathe chuck which is screwed into the headstock on the lathe. Alternatively the blank can be positioned through its central axis between the centres of the head and tail stocks of the lathe, depending on the process required for the piece being turned.  

Generally speaking, once the blank is set up on the lathe, it needs to be 'roughed' into a true cylinder according to its position on the face plate or between centres. Once the piece has been turned it must be sanded - through all the grits - before it can be finished. I use either a food-safe mineral oil, beeswax, Tung and/or Danish oil to finish the piece, depending on the intended use for the item.

A collection of small bamboo bowls. 

London Plane Bowl 12cm dia' x 8cm tall

London Plane Cup 8cm dia' x 5.5cm tall

London Plane Mortar 9.5cm dia' x 6.5 cm tall. Oak pestle. 

Small Cup - Iroko Hardwood. 

Wood Turning - Small Iroko Cup www.atsonartmaketeach.com
Small Herb or Salt & Pepper Bowls (Oak).
Medium Size Bamboo Bowl
Pistachio cup and segmented shell dish

Live edge alder bowl. 6″ x 6″ (H/dia), high gloss finish.

Spalted sycamore bowl. 6″ x 4″ (dia/H). Bees wax finish.

A collection of medium-sized coin/key dishes (Ash).
Decorative Box with Lid - Iroko.
Before and after - small herb or salt & pepper bowl (Oak).
Before and after 9.5 cm oak bowl.